Getting a wall or floor to look sharp comes down to preparation, patience and the right kit. This tiling tools list runs through everything you need to measure, cut, fix, grout and finish a tiling job to a standard you would be happy to pay for. Whether you are tiling a splashback for the first time or taking on a full bathroom, having the correct tools to hand is the difference between crisp joints and a job you end up redoing.
We have grouped the tools by the stage of work they belong to, so you can build your kit in the order you will actually use it. A few items are worth buying well; others you can hire for a single job.
Setting out and measuring tools
Every good tiling job starts before a single tile is fixed. Accurate setting out stops you finishing a wall with a sliver of tile in the most visible corner.
- Tape measure and pencil: for measuring the area, marking tiles and working out your tile count.
- Spirit level: a 600mm or 1200mm level to check your rows are dead level and your battens are true. A longer level gives fewer errors across a wall.
- Chalk line: snaps a straight reference line across a floor so you can lay from the centre out.
- Set square or speed square: for marking accurate 90-degree and 45-degree cuts.
- Timber battens and a few screws: a horizontal batten fixed to the wall carries the weight of the first full row so tiles cannot slide while the adhesive sets.
- Tile gauge: a straight length of timber marked with your tile width plus joint, used to plan rows and avoid thin cuts.
Time spent here pays for itself. The British Standard for tiling, BS 5385, sets out good practice for setting out and background preparation, and professional tilers plan the layout so that cut tiles fall in the least conspicuous places.
Cutting tools
How you cut depends on the tile. Ceramic wall tiles score and snap easily; porcelain and natural stone are harder and usually need a powered tool.
- Manual tile cutter: a score-and-snap cutter is fast and clean for straight cuts on ceramic and softer porcelain. Buy one with a rail long enough for your largest tile.
- Electric wet cutter or wet saw: a diamond blade running through water cuts porcelain, stone and large-format tiles without chipping. Worth hiring for a floor or a porcelain job.
- Tile nippers: for nibbling small curved cuts, for example around a pipe or a corner.
- Diamond hole saws and a drill: for clean round holes for pipes, taps and shower fittings. A cordless drill on a slow speed with a guide keeps the bit from wandering.
- Rubbing stone or diamond pad: to smooth a sharp cut edge before it meets a trim or a corner.
Fixing and adhesive tools
This is the stage where a few inexpensive tools do the most work. Consistent adhesive coverage is what keeps tiles stuck for decades.
- Notched trowel: the ridges control how much adhesive you leave on the wall or floor. A 6mm to 10mm notch suits most wall tiles; larger floor and format tiles need a bigger notch or a back-buttering approach.
- Bucket and a mixing paddle: for mixing powdered adhesive to a smooth, lump-free consistency. A paddle in a cordless drill saves your arm.
- Tile spacers: cross or T-shaped spacers set an even joint. Common sizes run from 1.5mm to 5mm depending on the tile and look you want.
- Tile levelling system: clips and wedges pull adjacent tiles flush and stop lippage, where one tile sits proud of its neighbour. These come into their own with large-format and floor tiles.
- Rubber mallet: to gently bed a tile into the adhesive without cracking it.
- Notched spreader: a smaller plastic spreader is handy for splashbacks and tight areas.
Grouting and finishing tools
Grout and sealant are the last things people see, so a tidy finish here lifts the whole job.
- Grout float: a rubber-faced float presses grout into the joints and scrapes off the excess.
- Grout sponge and two buckets: one bucket of clean water to wipe the surface, changed often, gives a haze-free finish.
- Grout finishing tool: or a rounded stick, for a neat, consistent concave joint.
- Silicone sealant and a sealant gun: a flexible silicone bead seals internal corners and the joint where tiles meet a bath, worktop or shower tray. These junctions move, so they need silicone rather than grout.
- Sealant smoothing tool: gives a clean, professional silicone line.
- Microfibre cloths: for the final polish once everything has cured.
Safety kit and useful extras
Cutting and mixing throws off dust and sharp fragments, so protection is not optional.
- Safety glasses and work gloves: essential when cutting tiles.
- Dust mask: cutting porcelain and stone releases fine dust; a wet cutter and a mask reduce the risk.
- Knee pads: any floor job will thank you for these.
- Tile trim and edging: metal or plastic profiles give external corners and tile edges a finished look.
- Scraper and dust sheets: for prepping the surface and protecting the room.
The essential tiling tools list at a glance
If you are starting from nothing and want the short version, this is the core tiling tools list for a typical wall or floor:
- Tape measure, pencil, spirit level and set square
- Manual tile cutter, tile nippers and a diamond hole saw
- Notched trowel, bucket, mixing paddle, spacers and a levelling system
- Grout float, grout sponge, two buckets and a finishing tool
- Silicone, sealant gun and a smoothing tool
- Safety glasses, gloves, dust mask and knee pads
Hire the wet cutter for one-off porcelain or floor jobs and buy the smaller tools, which you will use again. If your project involves a full bathroom, waterproofing or a wet room, it is often worth talking to a professional. You can see the kind of work we take on across South East London on the Bromley Tilers homepage.
Frequently asked questions
What tools do I need to tile a bathroom?
For a bathroom you need the full kit: a tape measure, spirit level and set square for setting out; a tile cutter, nippers and a diamond hole saw for cuts around pipes and fittings; a notched trowel, spacers and a levelling system for fixing; and a grout float, sponge, silicone and sealant gun to finish. A wet cutter is worth hiring if you are using porcelain or stone.
Do I need a tile levelling system?
Not for small ceramic wall tiles, but a levelling system makes a real difference with large-format and floor tiles, where even a small amount of lippage is obvious and can be a trip hazard. The clips and wedges hold neighbouring tiles flush while the adhesive sets.
What size notched trowel should I use?
As a rough guide, a 6mm to 8mm notch suits standard wall tiles, a 10mm to 12mm notch suits floor tiles, and large-format tiles need a larger notch plus back-buttering to achieve near-full adhesive coverage. Always check the adhesive manufacturer’s coverage guidance for your tile size.
Can I cut tiles without a wet saw?
Yes, for straight cuts on ceramic and many porcelain tiles a manual score-and-snap cutter works well. For hard porcelain, natural stone, large tiles or lots of curved cuts, an electric wet cutter gives a cleaner, chip-free edge and is usually worth hiring.
Which tiling tools are worth buying rather than hiring?
Buy the small, frequently used tools: trowel, level, spacers, grout float, sponge and a sealant gun. Hire the expensive, occasional items such as an electric wet cutter or a large-format levelling kit unless you tile regularly.
What does the British Standard say about tiling?
BS 5385 is the British Standard covering the design and installation of wall and floor tiling. It sets out good practice for background preparation, adhesives, movement joints and setting out. The Tile Association publishes guidance based on these standards for both trade and homeowners.
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